Glacier Express Travel Guide

What is the Glacier Express?

The Glacier Express is a panoramic train operated jointly by the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn (MGB) and the Rhaetian Railway (RhB). It runs daily between Zermatt and St. Moritz — or Davos during part of the year — crossing three Alpine passes and passing through some of the most dramatic mountain scenery in Europe.

Despite being called an "express," it is famously one of the slowest long-distance trains in the world. The 8-hour journey is entirely intentional: the route winds through narrow valleys, over high viaducts, and through mountain tunnels at a pace designed for scenery, not speed. The train crosses 291 bridges, passes through 91 tunnels, and reaches a maximum altitude of 2,033 m at the Oberalp Pass — making it one of the highest rail crossings in the Alps.

First inaugurated in 1930, the Glacier Express has become one of the most iconic rail journeys in the world. Today it carries hundreds of thousands of passengers every year, drawn by the combination of engineering marvels, alpine scenery, and the comfort of the modern panoramic cars introduced in 2016.

The Route, Section by Section

Zermatt → Andermatt (Morning)

The journey begins in Zermatt, the car-free village beneath the Matterhorn. As the train climbs out of the valley, the iconic pyramid of the Matterhorn appears behind you — look back for the best view in the first few minutes. The train follows the Matter Valley north through Visp, then turns east into the Rhône Valley and climbs toward Brig. From Brig, the route enters the Goms valley — a high, wide alpine plateau lined with traditional wooden villages and, in winter, completely blanketed in snow. The train passes through Fiesch, home to the Aletsch Glacier (the longest in the Alps), before ascending to the Furka Base Tunnel and emerging near Andermatt, a crossroads village beneath the Gotthard massif.

Andermatt → Disentis (Midday — the Oberalp Pass)

This is the highest section of the journey. From Andermatt the train climbs to the Oberalp Pass at 2,033 m — the highest point on the route — where the landscape is bare, windswept, and extraordinary in its starkness. In winter this section is particularly dramatic, with the train cutting through walls of packed snow several metres high. After the pass, the train descends into the Vorderrhein valley and arrives at Disentis/Mustér, a small town in the Romansh-speaking Graubünden, where a Benedictine monastery with roots going back to the 8th century is visible on the hillside above the station.

Disentis → Chur → St. Moritz (Afternoon)

From Disentis, the Rhaetian Railway takes over and the train continues through the Rhine gorge — the so-called Swiss Grand Canyon — a dramatic stretch of steep rocky walls carved by the Rhine River. This section between Ilanz and Reichenau is one of the lesser-discussed highlights of the route, often overlooked because passengers are coming off the high-altitude drama of the Oberalp Pass. After Chur (the oldest city in Switzerland, with a well-preserved medieval old town), the train climbs the famous Albula line via spiral tunnels and stone viaducts — including the celebrated Landwasser Viaduct near Filisur — the same UNESCO-listed section used by the Bernina Express. The journey ends in St. Moritz in the late afternoon, with the frozen lake or summer meadows of the Engadin valley spread below.

Route Overview: Key Stations & Altitudes

The Glacier Express descends from Zermatt, drops all the way to Visp, climbs again to the Oberalp Pass, and finally rises once more to St. Moritz. This profile — far more varied than a straight mountain crossing — is what makes the journey so visually rich.

Top 5 Scenic Moments on the Glacier Express

1. The Matterhorn at Departure

As the train pulls out of Zermatt station and rounds the first bend, the Matterhorn's unmistakable pyramid appears behind you to the south. This lasts only a few minutes before the valley closes in — have your camera ready from the moment the train departs. It is the most photographed moment of the journey, and rightly so.

2. The Goms Valley in Winter

Between Brig and Andermatt, the train crosses the Goms — a broad, flat-bottomed valley at around 1,300–1,400 m altitude. In winter, the entire valley is buried under deep snow, with traditional wooden chalets and village churches emerging from white fields. The light here, especially on clear mornings, is unlike anything else in Switzerland. In summer, the same valley is green and pastoral, dotted with wildflowers.

3. The Oberalp Pass

At 2,033 m, the Oberalp Pass is the crown of the journey. There is no station stop here — the train simply slows as it crosses the pass, giving passengers time to take in the treeless, wind-scoured plateau and the dark blue waters of the Oberalpsee. In winter, snow walls several metres high line the track, and the train passes through them at walking pace.

4. The Rhine Gorge (Swiss Grand Canyon)

Between Ilanz and Reichenau — after the train has descended from the Oberalp Pass and is making its way toward Chur — the route enters the Rhine Gorge, a narrow canyon of white limestone walls carved by the Vorderrhein. This section is often called the "Swiss Grand Canyon" and is a genuine geological spectacle. It is one of the most under-appreciated highlights of the entire journey.

5. The Landwasser Viaduct

On the Albula section between Chur and St. Moritz, the train crosses the Landwasser Viaduct near Filisur — a six-arched stone viaduct curving at 65 m height directly into the mouth of a tunnel. It is one of the most photographed railway structures in the world and part of the UNESCO-listed Rhaetian Railway. The viaduct is best seen from the right side of the train travelling in the Chur → St. Moritz direction.

Key Stops Along the Way

• Zermatt — Car-free alpine village at the foot of the Matterhorn. Worth arriving a day early to explore the village and hike to a viewpoint.
• Visp — Connection point for trains to the Jungfrau region (Interlaken direction). No reason to stop unless connecting.
• Fiesch — Gateway to the Aletsch Glacier, the longest glacier in the Alps. A cable car ascends to the Fiescheralp viewpoint with views over the glacier.
• Andermatt — A charming mountain village and growing ski resort backed by the Urseren valley. Worth a stop if you want to explore the Gotthard pass area or ski the Gemsstock.
• Oberalp Pass (2,033 m) — No station stop, but a slow passage across open alpine terrain. The frozen Oberalpsee is visible in winter.
• Disentis/Mustér — Quiet Romansh-speaking town with a historic Benedictine monastery. A good overnight stop if splitting the journey over two days.
• Chur — Switzerland's oldest city. The medieval old town is within easy walking distance of the station and makes a good lunch stop.
• St. Moritz — One of the world's most famous ski and summer resorts. The frozen lake in winter, the hiking and cycling trails in summer, and the Engadin valley reward an extended stay.

Which Side to Sit On

For the Zermatt → St. Moritz direction:

• Left side (window seat A): Better for the Matterhorn view at departure, the Goms valley, and the Rhine Gorge.
• Right side (window seat D): Better for the Oberalp Pass lake, and the Landwasser Viaduct (Chur → St. Moritz section).

The panoramic cars have large windows that extend into the roof, so the view is good from either side throughout the journey. The differences above are for specific landmark moments. Both sides see the Oberalp Pass and the Goms valley clearly.

Dining on Board

Unlike the Bernina Express, the Glacier Express has a full dining car — one of its most distinctive features. A three-course lunch is served at your seat (or in the dining car), and the train is well-known for its tilted wine glasses, a design quirk invented to compensate for the steep gradients on the route. The glasses have angled bases that keep the liquid level even as the train climbs or descends. This has become one of the symbols of the Glacier Express experience.

The menu changes seasonally and typically features Swiss-influenced dishes. Whether a meal is included in your booking depends on your ticket or tour package — check the conditions of your specific experience. On some packages it is included; on others it is an add-on or can be purchased on board.

Best Time to Travel

• Summer (June–September): The most popular season. Green valleys, wildflower meadows above Andermatt and in the Engadin, and reliable clear skies. The Aletsch Glacier and Rhine Gorge are most accessible. Seats fill up quickly — book well in advance, especially in July and August.
• Autumn (October–November): Golden larches in the upper valleys and the Engadin, fewer crowds, and often exceptional light for photography. The larch forests around St. Moritz and Bergün are spectacular in late October.
• Winter (December–March): The Goms valley and Oberalp Pass are at their most dramatic, buried in deep snow. The train operates year-round but some weather delays are possible on higher sections. Zermatt and St. Moritz are at their liveliest during ski season.
• Spring (April–May): The quietest and most affordable period. Snow still present at altitude while valley floors are greening. Good seat availability and lower prices for accommodation at either end of the route.

Glacier Express vs. Bernina Express: Which to Choose?

These are Switzerland's two most famous panoramic trains, and both depart from (or arrive at) St. Moritz. The question of which one to take — or whether to do both — is one of the most common questions from first-time visitors to Switzerland.

If you can only choose one and have a full day free, the Glacier Express offers more variety and the unique dining experience. If you want to cross into Italy or complete the journey in half a day, the Bernina Express is the better fit. Many travellers do both — they make natural complements, sharing St. Moritz as a connection point.

How to Combine Both Trains in One Trip

St. Moritz is the junction between the two routes. A classic Swiss rail itinerary uses this to build a loop across the Alps:

• Day 1: Fly into Zurich. Train to Zermatt (via Visp, ~3.5 h). Afternoon walk in Zermatt, views of the Matterhorn.
• Day 2: Glacier Express to St. Moritz (~8 h). Arrive late afternoon. Overnight in the Engadin valley.
• Day 3: Morning in St. Moritz (lake walk, Segantini Museum or ski slopes in winter). Afternoon Bernina Express south to Tirano (~2.5 h) or Lugano via PostBus (~4 h total).
• Day 4: Return from Tirano or Lugano to Zurich via Milan or via the Gotthard Panorama Express. Alternatively, reverse the itinerary entirely.

This four-day loop gives you the Matterhorn, the Oberalp Pass, the Engadin, the Bernina pass, and a corner of northern Italy — all by train, without a car.

Photography Tips

• Matterhorn: Look back through the rear window as soon as the train departs Zermatt. The view closes within 5–10 minutes.
• Window reflections: The panoramic car windows are large and clean but can reflect interior light. A microfibre cloth or lens hood pressed against the glass eliminates most reflections.
• Landwasser Viaduct: Sit on the right side (Chur → St. Moritz direction). The viaduct appears briefly as the train curves into the tunnel — have your camera ready in the Filisur area.
• Oberalp Pass: The train slows considerably here. Wide-angle shots work well for the open plateau. In winter, the snow walls alongside the track make strong geometric compositions.
• Rhine Gorge: Vertical shots work best here — the canyon walls are tall and narrow. Left side from Disentis direction.
• Golden hour: If travelling east (Zermatt → St. Moritz) in summer, the Engadin valley arrival in late afternoon often has excellent low light.

Practical Information

Tickets & Reservations

A seat reservation is mandatory for the Glacier Express panoramic cars. If you hold a Swiss Travel Pass or Eurail/Interrail pass, these cover the base fare but the reservation supplement must be arranged through whoever issued your pass — check with your ticket provider for the correct process.

Getting to the Starting Points

• Zermatt — Reachable by train from Visp or Täsch (no private cars allowed in Zermatt). Visp has direct connections from Geneva, Lausanne, Bern, and Zurich.
• St. Moritz — Reachable from Zurich via Chur (about 3.5 h). It is also the starting point of the Bernina Express heading south toward Italy.

One Way or Return?

Because the journey takes a full day in each direction, most travellers do it one-way and travel back by a different route (e.g. via Zurich by InterCity from Chur). A popular multi-day itinerary combines the Glacier Express one way with the Bernina Express the other, using St. Moritz as the connection point — see the suggested itinerary above.

Luggage

Storage space in the panoramic cars is limited. Travel with cabin-sized luggage if possible. If you need to transport large bags, SBB offers a luggage forwarding service (Gepäck) that sends your suitcase to your destination ahead of time — useful if you are spending a night at either end of the route.

Frequently Asked Questions

ℹ️ Several answers below depend on your specific ticket or tour package. Always check the conditions of your booking before travelling.